While the design of 7 definitely fits the contemporary category, the restaurant's creators haven't ignored the timeless qualities that go into an exceptional dining experience - things like comfort, warmth and service that's precise without being fussy.

7's dishes are as eye-catching as they are delicious, often served on unusual china that's designed to enhance the meal.

The imaginative, but approachable, food is served in surroundings that can complement any number of moods. The dining room is lovely enough for a romantic evening at a table for two, colorful enough for a  convivial get-together, and approachable enough for nothing more than a relaxing evening made memorable by exceptional food and drink.

Against a backdrop of soft whites and other neutral colors, Chinese-Chippendale chairs, framed in a shade of bright salmon, surround white-linen-covered tables. Along two walls, more splashes of color come from large, striking paintings that celebrate the pleasures of the table.

A line of cushy banquettes lines the full length of one dining-room wall. Extending above the banquettes is a wood partition of see-through cubicles holding small lighted candles, adding a soothing effect to the environment at dinner.

The bar, which occupies a niche at the front of the dining room, lends its own color and sense of movement to the scene with fanciful lighting and yet another vibrant painting.

At cocktail time, balmy weather increases the attraction of the comfortable sidewalk tables lined up on Fulton Street.